The new city, built outside the walls, begins at the end of Via Maqueda, where Piazza Verdi opens up. It was once the site of one of the city gates, which was demolished to make room for the construction of the Teatro Massimo during the Art Nouveau period. Leaving Piazza Verdi, we take Ruggero VII, which is lined with shops, and we stop at the beginning of the elegant Via Principe di Belmonte, a favorite pedestrian area amongst the locals, who like to sit at the outside tables while enjoying a drink or an ice cream from Spinnato. Back on Via Ruggero VII, we head to Piazza Politeama named after the Theater that rises there on the right. Inside, you can visit the Modern Art Gallery, with works by important Sicilian sculptors. Crossing the square, we head to Via Dante. At number 53 we find Palazzo Ziino, which was recently restored and now is the seat of numerous cultural performances and temporary art exhibitions. Once past the building, we turn right onto Via Sammartino, heading for a place wine connoisseurs are sure to appreciate: Vinoveritas, a wineshop that offers the best labels of small, local producers. We return to Via Dante and head towards Via Libertà, a three-lane, elegant, tree-lined avenue that is a favorite shopping area. On the sides of the avenue we can admire some beautiful Art Nouveau homes, a style that was very popular during the Belle Epoque in Palermo, a period defined by the Florio family and the celebrated architect Ernesto Basile. Via Libertà leads us to one of the best known gardens in the city: the English Garden, a spacious natural area with small hills and pools of water, done in the typical English style that was very popular in the 20th century. On the other side of the street, is one of the most beautiful villas of Palermo, the Villa Trabia with its large park and rich variety of plants.

Before resuming our tour of the city, we can stop at Al Viale on Via Libertà to eat a quick meal in a fun, young cafè with outside seating. Next, we return to Piazza Politeama and take Via Amari to Via Roma. Then, we turn left onto Via Cavour, taking it down to Piazza XIII Vittime, which contains a large iron monument in commemoration of mafia victims. Not far from hear to the west of La Cala, we can admire the ruins of the Castello al Mare, the fortress that protected Palermo when it was a fortified city under the rule of the Emir Al Muizz. In front of us we find the Gulf of Palermo, with the large inlet, La Cala, the landing place of the Phoenicians, who were the first people to colonize the city. We walk along the water to Porta Felice, where Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the Cassaro, begins, running all the way up to Monreale. Right after the gate, the street widens into Piazza S. Spirito where we can admire the Seahorse Fountan. To the left of the Piazza, on Via Butera, we find the International Puppet Museum, which has a vast collection of Sicilian puppets and other marionettes from around the world. For toy enthusiasts, there is the Toy Museum on Via Bandiera, a museum with a rather large collection of dolls, rocking horses and other children's playthings. Next, we go up Via Alloro, where we find the Sicilian Regional Gallery in the heart of the old Arab quarter with its dense network of narrow streets. We turn onto Via Paternostro heading toward Mi Manda Picone, one of the most fashionable wine bars of the city, where we can taste excellent Sicilian wines accompanied by local cheeses. Wine connoisseurs will also want to head over to 92 Via Maqueda, a palace that houses the Oenologcal Museum, a permanent exhibition on Sicilian wines.

In the evening, head for the historic city center, which over the last several years has become a lively night spot due to the opening of new restaurants like Cambio Cavalli, on Via Patania, the ideal place for aperitifs in a young, trendy setting or for an elegant candlelight dinner. Afterwards, you can continue your evening at I Candelai, a cultural association with a rich variety of events, including art, music, and theater.

Some areas of the city still maintain the magical atmosphere from the days when the Norman kings ruled. To discover the fascinating mystery of old Palermo, head for the Zisa Castle, one of the hunting residences used by the Norman kings, which gets its name from the Arabic "Al Haziz", The Splendid. The building, which was built at the center of a large, green oasis, contains exquisite mosaics in the Sala della Fontana, in addition to a number of other treasures. Inside, you will find the Museum of Islamic Art, with a selection of precious pieces that date to the years between the 11th and 13th centuries. Behind the famous castle lies the former Officine Ducrot, which is today the home of the Cantieri Culturali della Zisa. Several years ago the spacious pavilions were restored and converted into exhibition, concert and meeting halls. If you would like a taste of some of Palermo's best pastries, not far from here you will find the Pasticceria Oscar on Via Miglacco, which offers tantalizing "cannoli", "cassate" and almond pastries. Then we continue our tour at the second residence of the Norman kings: La Cuba, located in the historic center not far from Palazzo dei Normanni on Corso Calatafimi. This building had many features in common with Zisa and, like the latter, was situated in a spacious garden, however, only the walls remain today. It gets its name from "Qubba", the Arabic word for a typical cubic structure surmounted by a red cupola, which in Islamic symbolism represent the Earth and the sky. Once we have completed our visit of La Cuba, we continue with our search for Palermo's traditional culinary treats with lunch at Trattoria Normanni near the castle, which serves a selection of traditional local dishes.

The city of Palermo rose in the heart of the Conca d'Oro, a natural oasis crossed by long-lost ancient rivers that is ideally situated between the sea and the mountains. In the afternoon, we head to one of the city's natural treasures, which is still entirely intact: Parco della Favorita, the former hunting grounds of King Ferdinand IV of Bourbon, who had the unique Palazzina Cinese built during his years of exile from Naples. The building, with its pagoda roof, is unmistakably of Oriental inspiration and is today the home of the G. Pitré Sican Ethnographic Museum, which holds a collection dedicated to traditional Sicilian peasant life with interesting objects and costumes. Near the Palazzina, you can admire the Villa Niscemi, a beautiful villa built by a 19th century aristocratic family of Palermo.The villa, which is the representative seat of the mayor, contains beautiful rooms with the valuable, original furnishings and a garden abounding with palms and fruit trees. It is said that the celebrated author, Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, drew inspiration from the villa while he wrote his novel Il Gattopardo, making it the residence of the Tancredi princes. Across from it, you can visit the remains of Villa Lampedusa, which belonged to the author's father. The villa's park is use for large-scale musical events. After our visit at the villa, we head to a very charming place: La Cuba, which bears the traditional red cupola that we have already see at other important monuments in the city. This lounge bar, situated in the beautiful garden of the nearby Villa Sperlinga, is a nice place to take a break.

For a special evening out, head to Kandinsky Florio, the former "tonnara" (used for tuna fishing) of the illustrious Florio family, situated in the Arenella area. The restaurant pizzeria has a dance floor and is one of the city's hot spots on summer evenings for its beautiful terrace that overlooks the sea. Inside, you will find the "Quattro Pizzi" villa, an elegant building with four spires of British Gothic inspiration. The Russian tzarina was so fascinated with the building during her stay here that she had a copy made in back in her native St. Petersburg.

Palermo, which is ideally situated on a gulf, is magnificently framed by Monte Pellegrino, which Goethe termed one of the most beautiful promontories in the world. The imposing mountain, which towers over the city, gives you one of the most beautiful views of the island. In fact, from here you can see the Island of Ustica, the summits of the Madonna Mountains and the Aeolian Islands. The mountain is also home to the Sanctuary dedicated to the patroness of the city, St. Rosalia, which you can reach by car or on foot along the path that devoted followers take on September 4th, her feast day. The path will give you new views of the city and will let you admire the beautiful panorama overlooking the Gulf. Inside the Sanctuary you will find the exequies of the saint and the numerous votive offerings of the devoted. Another building on the mountain that will attract your attention is the Castello Utveggio, a medieval-style construction from 1927 with a magnificent view. On your way back down stop at the Fiera del Mediterraneo at the foot of Monte Pellegrino, an interesting trade fair that changes every month. Before leaving this area of the city, it is worthwhile to go to Villa Igiea on Via Belmonte, a typical example of Art Nouveau architecture in Palermo, which was designed by Ernesto Basile.The villa, a hotel complex built for the Florios, contains the splendid Salone Basile, which is open to the public.

In the afternoon, head for the local markets that extend along the dense network of streets in the historic city center. The most famous is the Vuccirìa, on the Via Roma, across from the Teatro Biondo, which is one of the largest theaters in Palermo. Not as well-known, but just as characteristic, is the Ballarò Market. To get to it, take Via Roma in the direction of the Central Station and then turn onto Discesa dei Giudici, which will take you to Piazza Bellini. You will find the market at the end of Via dell'Università. We are in the oldest section of Palermo, halfway between two important churches: the Church of the Carmine and Casa Professa. The former, which was built in the typical Italian Mannerist style, contains the famous painting the "Madonna del Carmine". The Church of Casa Professa is also known as the Church of Gesù after the Society of Jesus that established itself here during the 16th century. The rich, interior, Baroque decorations are of particular interest. Each one holds symbolic meaning in line with the tastes of the period.

In the evening you can take a pleasant stroll on the elegant Via Libertà and then eat in the garden of the Kandinsky Cafè, which you will find on the same street. This restaurant-pizzeria, much frequented by the young people of Palermo, is a great place to try some local specialties. If you would like to listen to good live music after you have eaten, head over to Agricantus a hot spot for ethnic music, which is also used to host temporary exhibitions.