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Tuesday September 7, 2010 















Palermo
Off the beaten path
The favourite places of Palermitans outside the city. The sumptuous Cathedral of Monreale, the subterranean city, the villas of Bagheria, once the holiday resort of Palermo's nobility, and the Gulf of Mondello the present holiday resort of middle-class Palermo. Tasty fish dishes at Sferracavallo and the precious marine reserve of the island of Ustica. And the town of Cagliostro.

First Day
A stroll at Monreale with the magnificent Cathedral, its Byzantine mosaics and a splendid view of Palermo
 
A tour of the Qanat, the underground city built during the period of Arab rule
 
Seafood at Sferracavallo, a fishing village that overlooks the Gulf of Palermo
Second Day
   
The summer villas of Palermo's noble families in Bagheria and the Museum of Renato Guttuso
 
The Gulf of Mondello, a beautiful area with Art Nouveau villas, white sand and water sports
 
Seafood dinner in the small square of Mondello, then a romantic stroll along the seaside promenade
Third Day
   
A trip to the island of Ustica with its splendid depths, loved by divers and the ideal place for snorkeling.
 
Alternative itineraries in the city: the places of the Count of Cagliostro and the Order of the Beati Paoli
 
Dinner and disco inside an old deconsecrated church and the folk theater of the Ditirammu



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 Palermo

Monreale Cathedral

Palatine Chapel

Sicilian citrus fruits

 
 
 
Off the beaten path
First Day

Morning
Other areas outside of the historic city center of Palermo offer a wealth of surprises and wonders to discover. In fact, by taking a few excursions outside the city, you will get a fuller understanding of the rich artistic and natural treasures that the area surrounding the Sicilian capital has to offer. We begin at Monreale, a small town that rises 8 kilometers form Palermo that was once the hunting grounds of the Norman kings. To get there, go to Piazza Indipendenza and take the bus for Monreale. In the 12th century William II had the magnificent Monreale Cathedral built to oppose the power of the archbishop of Palermo. The cathedral and its Benedictine cloister were part of a citadel that included the Royal Palace and Abbey, which was protected by bastions and towers. We go inside the Cathedral to admire the incredible mosaics that are similar to those found at the Palatine Chapel, especially the effigy of the benedictory Christ Pantocrator, or the almighty Christ. The vast, golden interior space contains more than six thousand square meters of glittering mosaics. Be sure to visit the terraces of the Cathedral where you can enjoy a magnificent view of Palermo and the entire Conca d'Oro. We head to another area that is worthy of a visit: the cloisters of the Cathedral, which are formed by an arcade of pointed arches and a beautiful fountain off to one side. Before returning to Palermo, you can enjoy the relaxing atmosphere of Monreale a bit longer by stopping to eat lunch at Botte, a restaurant carved out of an old wine cellar.
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Enoteca Robinson (wineshop)

Cab

 
 
First Day
Palermo: Off the beaten path

Afternoon
Back in the city, we can begin our surprising discovery of underground Palermo, which is made up of passages and a dense network of tunnels known as the Qanat, the aqueducts built by the Arabs that stretch from the countryside of Palermo to the city center. This system guaranteed a spontaneous and continuous flow of water during the period of Arab domination, taking advantage of the sloping land to move the water naturally with the force of gravity. Today, you can visit the Qanat Gesuitico Basso (Low Jesuit Tunnel), located at the bottom of Vignicella, and the Qanat Gesuitico Alto (High Jesuit Tunnel), located at Altarello di Baida. If you are interested in taking the tour ask for more information at the Palermo Sottosopra agency. If you would like to go on a relaxing tour of the city take a horse carriage ride around the city center to casually enjoy the beauties of Palermo. You can end the afternoon sipping an aperitif at Robinson, a wine bar with good Sicilian labels, which is also a very popular pub in the evening among the locals.
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Island of the Femmine

 
 
First Day
Palermo: Off the beaten path

Evening
You have not truly experienced Palermo if you have not tasted its famous seafood. For a delightful evening along the shores of the sea, head over to Sferracavallo, a small village that overlooks the Gulf of Palermo, just a few km from the city. This area is renowned for its seafood restaurants like Al Delfino, which is sure to delight your palate. After dinner, take a stroll along the promenade where you will see the small, uninhabited island, Isola delle Femmine, which still contains a 16th century watchtower.
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 Palermo

Villa Palagonia

La Vuccirìa of Renato Guttuso

Villa Valguarnera

 
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Off the beaten path
Second Day

Morning
We continue our tour outside the city, visiting some architectural jewels situated just a few km from Palermo. We are headed to Bagheria, the small town famous for aristocratic villas that were once the summer retreats of the most important families of Palermo. Since then the look of the town has changed greatly due to heavy building speculation that has left little but the vestiges of the once beautiful parks and gardens. However, amidst the modern buildings, you will find the magnificent villas that still preserve their original fascination and mystery despite the passing years. Of the villas that can be visited perhaps the most accessible is the Villa Palagonia, built by Ferdinando Gravina Alliata, the nephew of the Prince of Palagonia. It has a remarkable, double staircase and beautifully frescoed halls. Another very famous structure is Villa Cattolica, which was the summer residence of Francesco Bonanno, Prince of Bagheria. The villa which was to become a multipurpose center, is now the seat of the Renato Guttuso Gallery of Modern and Contemporary At, gathering the most important works of this renowned painter from Bagheria.
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Sails at Mondello

Monte Pellegrino

Parco della Favorita

 
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Second Day
Palermo: Off the beaten path

Afternoon
Leaving Bagheria, we head toward a popular vacation spot of modern Palermo. The small fishing village of Mondello, which lies west of Palermo on a pretty gulf nestled between the mountains, has become an important upscale resort. To get to Mondello, cross through the large Parco della Favorita. Along the paths for Mondello, you will begin to see the small, elegant, Art Nouveau villas built by the middle class residents of Palermo at the beginning of the last century. The symbol of the village is Kursaal, the seaside resort built in 1912 with a floral motif. The town is centered around a small square near the pier with a number of cafés and restaurants that offer one of the most beautiful views of this corner of Sicily:a fine white sand beach, the crystalline sea, the swaying palms and the surrounding mountains, with Monte Pellegrino on one side and Monte Gallo on the other. It is not surprising then that the people of Palermo are so fond of this beach just outside the city, which is also the perfect place for water sports, like sailing, surfing and canoeing.
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Gulf of Mondello

 
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Second Day
Palermo: Off the beaten path

Evening
The village is a delightful place to spend the evening. The lively cafés in the small square are filled with young people who come here from Palermo for an evening of fun. If a delicious seafood dinner near the seashore sounds appealing, then head over to Totuccio, on Via Torre di Mondello, to delight your taste buds with a riot of flavors.
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 Palermo

The sea of Ustica

The town of Ustica

 
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Off the beaten path
Third Day

Morning
Another fascinating place just a few km from Palermo is the Island of Ustica, a splendid nature reserve in the midst of the open sea. In an hour's time you can easily reach the island by ferry or hydrofoil, arriving in a diving and snorkeling paradise with a beautiful sea bed. A treasure chest full of surprises, Ustica is called the "black pearl of the Mediterranean" for its volcanic origins. \It gathers together myriad natural beauties: a fascinating seabed, limpid waters that vary from shades of cobalt blue to crystalline green, and numerous grottoes, which can be visited on foot or by boat. For the less adventurous, an interesting alternative is a ride on a hydrofoil with a transparent bottom. The rides on the hydrofoil boats take you to grottoes and terraces, circumnavigating the island and even allowing you to admire the underwater beauties of one part of the marine reserve. However, nighttime sailing is by far the most fascinating way to see the island, the time of day preferred by some types of predators and by the grouper, the symbolic fish of the marine reserve. You can also see examples of the local marine life at the Cala Santa Maria aquarium.
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The Cathedral

Entrance to the Botanical Garden

Martorana fruit

 
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Third Day
Palermo: Off the beaten path

Afternoon
To fully appreciate the beauties of Ustica, you need more than half a day. If you prefer to remain in the city there are a number of unusual tours that you can take as an interesting alternative. For example, "Palermo di Cagliostro", is an interesting tour to visit the places connected to the so-called Count Cagliostro, who claimed to be a Portuguese nobleman but was actually born to a humble family in Palermo in 1743 as Giuseppe Balsamo. The "count", a famous miracle-worker, alchemist, trickster and fortune teller, was also the founder of the Egyptian Masonic Lodge and was well-known throughout 18th-century Europe. Despite all this, he ended his days in shame in the San Leo prison, condemned for heresy. One of the places tied to Cagliostro is the Botanical Gardens, built on the Piano Erasmo, where people were burned at the stake during the Inquisition. The design of the garden seems to be an esoteric homage to this master of esotericism. On one of the back lanes of the city center you can see the remains of the house in which he was born and then continue on to see the other places connected to Cagliostro during the period that he lived in Palermo. For more information, go to the Cooperativa Cagliostro, which also organizes guided visits of "Le vie dei Beati Paoli", the sect of hooded men that for many centuries organized revolts against baronial power.
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Sicilian puppet

 
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Third Day
Palermo: Off the beaten path

Evening
For a fun time out in the evening go to the Tina Pica, a discopub on two floors situated in a deconsecrated church. It is one of the hot spots in the city for the numerous famous DJ's that come to play here. Since it is also a pizzeria, you can stay for dinner. If you do not want to miss one of the most traditional shows of Palermo go to the Teatrino Ditirammu on Via Torremuzza 6, in the old Kalsa quarter. The show presents religious and social themes from the past accompanied by folk music.
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