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Friday July 30, 2010 














The full flavour of the upper valleys of Molise
A gastronomic itinerary in the valleys of Upper Molise in a remote region still off the major tourist routes, to discover a traditional, genuine cuisine of simple dishes made from products of the land and pastoral activities, as well as extraordinary cheeses bought in small dairy farms distributed across the area, and featuring a new protagonist: the truffle. All of this surrounded by wild nature in a region rich in tradtiions, towns perched on rocky ridges and bright green uncontaminated pastures.

First Day
From Scapoli to San Pietro Avellana, beginning with the town of shepherd's pipes and then moving to San Vincenzo al Volturno. A visit to Cerro al Volturno and finally San Pietro Avellana.
 
Dinner featuring wild game at the trattoria Il Perticone in San Pietro Avellana, and a "western" night out at the Wild Horse Saloon in Staffoli.
Second Day
   
From Capracotta to Agnone, beginning in one of the highest settlements of the Appennines. A stop amidst the nature of Prato Gentile then on to Agnone.
 
Dinner with grilled meats and local cheeses along the Rio Verde torrent at the restaurant Le Panche of Pescopennataro; back to Agnone for after-dinner entertainment.
Third Day
   
From Pietrabbondante to Carovilli. Discover the history of the archaeological complex of Pietrabbondante followed by full immersion in the nature of Staffoli, Vastogirardi and Carovilli, renowned for its excellent cuisine.
 
Typical dishes of the region at the cosy trattoria "Da Adriano" in Carovilli, then take your partners please for ballroom dancing at the old Dance Club.



 NEIGHBORHOODS
 
 
The full flavour of the upper valleys of Molise

Wheat fields

San Vincenzo al Volturno

Agnone, church


Grazing horses

Venafro Castle

 
Start
 
 
Itinerary
First Day

In giornata
Our itinerary begins in Scapoli, an charming old town with a Longobard fortress built by the Benedictines of San Vincenzo. The Mediaeval castrum still retains elements such as the "sentinel walkway" on the battlements which conjures up epic images and offers a wonderful view. Scapoli is primarily known as the town of shepherd's pipes and, in fact, hosts the Museum of the Italian shepherd's pipes as well as an active Pipers Club and various surviving craft shops. The craftsmen exhibit their creations on the last Sunday of every July at the Market fair and international shepherd's pipes festival. Gourmets should not miss "La Raviolata", a fair featuring the famous Scapoli ravioli held on the last Sunday of Carnival of each year. We then make a stop at Castel San Vincenzo. This municipality is renowned for the Abbey of San Vincenzo al Volturno All the villages in this area host many events during the summer and this is no exception, the prosciutto festival held in the first half of August. Castel San Vincenzo is known not only for its art, archaeology and gastronomy, however, as its territory includes uncontaminated nature with enchanting landscapes including that offered by the course of the Volturno river. In the afternoon we move on to Cerro al Volturno, which most likely draws its name from its turkey oaks which once flourished here. The territory was colonized before the year 1000 with the creation of the Abbey of San Vincenzo al Volturno, but has been inhabited since the Samnite era; the polygonal blocks of a megalith ring still visible in Santa Croce testify to this. The main attraction is Pandone Castle, the Pandone family having governed the fief. If you pass through this area in August you may find yourself at the goods and livestock fair or participate in the soffritto festival. The day ends in San Pietro Avellana where gastronomony definitely reigns supreme: San Pietro Avellana, in fact, recently became a member of the "Città dei Sapori" association and was already a member of the national "Città del tartufo" association. The renowned underground tuber is fittingly celebrated in the festival of the black truffle and in the Market Fair of the prized white truffle both held at the beginning of November. August is a month particularly rich in initiatives, including the emigrant festival and the week dedicated to the Museum of Popular Traditions and Period Costumes. Astronomy lovers should also visit the recently inaugurated planetarium.
 NEIGHBORHOODS
   
   
   
 

Meatballs

 
Start
 
First Day
The full flavour of the upper valleys of Molise

Evening
A typical dinner at the trattoria Il Perticone in San Pietro Avellana where you can try seasonal wild game and drink natural spring water. After dinner we move on to the Staffoli plateau (one of the destinations on day three) for a decidedly alternative evening at the Wild Horse Saloon with country music and pure Wild West can-can.
 NEIGHBORHOODS
   

 
The full flavour of the upper valleys of Molise

Grazing horse

Turkey oak

Wheat field


Pipers

Roman amphitheatre

 
Start
 
 
Itinerary
Second Day

In giornata
We begin in Capracotta, known to many as the "queen of the mountains", one of the most elevated towns of the whole Appennine mountain chain, dominating the surrounding valleys and offering breathtaking views over the Sangro valley. Capracotta offers nature and cuisine lovers the opportunity of numerous excursions as well as tasty dishes based on mushrooms and truffles or the unique flavours of dairy products, cheeses and genuine meats. The town is identified, in fact, with the Festival of the Pezzata. An important reference point for botany and nature lovers is the Giardino della Flora Appeninica, less than 1 km from the centre along the road to Prato Gentile at the foot of Monte Campo, with one of the best equipped cross-country ski facilities in all Italy. The village of Pescopennataro is not far fom here; one of the most delightful municipalities of Upper Molise due to its enviable panoramic position. A town of fine stone cutters, it is therefore known as the "town of stone" as well as the "town of fir trees". In the surrounding area, in fact, is the Pennataro wood, rich in fauna and largely covered by an extended forest of beech, maple and silver firs. The second part of the day is entirely dedicated to Agnone, an ancient art town and one of the few municipalities in Italy which boasts the Bandiera Arancione, recognition given by the Italian Touring Club to certify to the tourist/environmental quality of the town. One of its particular features is the wealth of B> churches, many in the historic centre. Gastronomy and handicrafts are also important. Walking through the characteristic alleys, amidst decorated portals, buildings and balconies with splendid balustrades, you will come across shops selling local sausage and extraordinary cheeses such as caciocavallo di Agnone, pastry shops offering such delights as the characteristic curly comfits and craft workshops for copper and wrought iron. You therefore have to visit the ancient foundry of Agnone named Pontificia Fonderia Marinelli and the adjacent Museum of the Bell. One of the most renowned traditions in Molise includes the "'Ndocciata" which takes place on Christmas Eve, a torchlight procession with enormous wooden torches which ending in the main square where a huge "bonfire of brotherhood" is lit.
 NEIGHBORHOODS
   
   
 

Wild game

 
Start
 
Second Day
The full flavour of the upper valleys of Molise

Evening
Dinner near Pescopennataro at restaurant Le Panche whose name derives from the beautiful benches set alongside the Rio Verde torrent. Here you can sample grilled meats, exquisite local cheeses and traditional recipes including "annodate di trippette". After-dinner entertainment features the Red Baron Pub in Agnone (Viale Europa, tel. 329 9634168), an Irish Pub with a private bar and a spacious open-air dance floor.
 NEIGHBORHOODS
   

 
The full flavour of the upper valleys of Molise

Torrent

Rows of vines

Ruins


Inland landscape

Castle interior

 
Start
 
 
Itinerary
Third Day

In giornata
Leaving Agnone we continue towards Pietrabbondante, identified by historians as Bovianum Vetus, the Samnite capital, with its unusual houses huddled at the foot of ridges known locally as morge. The true surprise, however, is the archaeological complex formed by the theatre-temple. Near Pietrabbondante, not to be missed is the Collemeluccio and Montedimezzo nature reserve Staffoli a curious village that has recreated a Far West atmosphere, complete with saloon. The area is characterized by an immense plateau dotted with oak and coniferous woods which covering dozens of square km, green pastures and clear streams. Horses from the local holiday farms run and graze in the fields. Events of note in Staffoli include the Corsalonga, the greatest equestrian meet in all of central-southern Italy. We then move towards Vastogirardi, an interesting town both for its landscapes and natural resources, and for its historical legacy which includes the small Italic temple in the village of S. Angelo. The square of the fortified town is particularly charming; this fortress-castle was built in the Middle Ages and later transformed into a palace. The cheese products are particularly genuine and renowned, particularly the tasty "treccia", a soft dough cheese. There are various festivals linked to the tasting of typical dishes and religious tradition, including the festival of the cazzariegl e fascioul (small gnocchi and beans) and the festival of the patron saint featuring a delightful representation of the Flight of the Angel. Today ends in the picturesque village of Carovilli. The main attractions here include the splendid natural scenery and the excellent food. Small traditional farms supply milk and quality meats to the local restaurants. Leading actor, however, is the truffle: particularly interesting the protected truffle ground, the largest truffle-ground in the world of white truffles owned by a public authority, as well as the Truffle Market Fair. Another festival not to be missed is the Tresca, a demonstration of traditional grain threshing with the aid of horses. In August there is also the Prawn Festival and the "Market under the Stars", an annual appointment for the small antiques traders and collectors, open 24 hours.
 NEIGHBORHOODS
   
   
   
 

Truffle

 
Start
 
Third Day
The full flavour of the upper valleys of Molise

Evening
Dinner at the trattoria "Da Adriano" in Carovilli, a small and cosy restaurant where you can savour typical regional dishes, including the green polenta with seasonal vegetables, potatoes with beans and truffle, roast wild boar, a delicious barbecued lamb and - between May and June - snails. After dinner, ballroom dancing in the beautiful wooden hall of the Dance Club (one of the oldest in Italy).


 NEIGHBORHOODS