Even today, Viterbo's illustrious past is still talked about, from fulcrum of Etruscan and Roman civilisation to free municipality and papal town. Rich in charitable institutions, lodging houses, and historical memories, Viterbo still has its 11th and 13th century walls, and many medieval houses, squares and picturesque views, especially in the neighbourhoods of San Pellegrino and Piano Scarano. At the beginning of the 1200s Viterbo was able to accommodate as many as 40,000 people, over and above its own inhabitants. One of the reasons for the town's rapid population growth can be seen in the inscription on the Porta Sonsa, the main gate in the inner wall. This reminded whomever had been a slave, that once a citizen of Viterbo he would be considered a free man. Furthermore, the pilgrims who made their way to Rome along the via Francigena, contributed from Medieval times onwards to making the town the historical, administrative and economic centre of Tuscia, and its monuments bear witness to this. The most interesting in the town centre is the Papal Palace . The building, erected at the wish of Captain of the People, Raniero Gatti, had been built to receive the papal court, after their decision to move away from their turbulent seat in Rome. Scene of no less than five conclaves, including one which lasted thirty three months and ended with the election of Pope Gregory X, the fortified residence has one curious story to tell, the origin of the word "conclave". The Viterbans, tired of waiting for the cardinals' decision, made Gatti shut the gate "cum clave", remove the roof and limit their supply of food. Other important monuments are the Rocca Albornoz, now the home of the National Museum, the church of S. Maria della Verità with the adjacent Municipal Museum, the Church of Sant. Andrea, the Santa Maria in Gradi complex and the many fountains – an outstanding one is the Fontana Grande in the square of that name. A short distance from the residential centre, on the old Via Cassia, are many ruins of baths, famous since the Etruscans, such as the ponte Camillario, made of a single arch of large blocks held together by its own weight and without cement . The most important thermal spring is without doubt the Bullicame, famous from antiquity for the therapeutic properties of its waters, and today the location of the Botanical Garden.

The leaning house, the head of Glaucus the fisherman who became a sea god after eating a magic herb, sea nymphs and a theatre to remind one of the tragedy and comedy of life. These and more can be admired in the Parco dei Mostri, a kind of fantasy itinerary in which mythological allegories alternate with fantastical sculptures. The park was conceived by Vicino Orsini, who was born here in 1523. A romantic and a brave commander in the service of the Pontifical State, on his return from the wars he had a number of fantastical and grotesque statues placed in the valley beneath the castle. Legend recounts that on the death of his wife Giulia Farnese he had a small temple built in the park in her memory, and that according to her request, the local priests were to commemorate her in their masses forever more. The work of constructing the monsters, sculpted in peperino volcanic stone, began most probably in 1552, but remained for many centuries in a state of abandon, until it was rediscovered by Salavador Dali in 1938. Not far from the park, clinging to a hill in the Tiber Valley is the old hamlet of Bomarzo, dominated by the Orsini palace, which was rebuilt at the beginning of the 16th century. Inside the building, now the Town Hall, on the vault of the council chamber is a fresco by Lorenzo Berrettini depicting the "Triumph of Peace over War". Encouraging, is it not?

Visiting the little medieval hamlet of Soriano nel Cimino, you can see the Castello Orsini, which Pope Nicholas III had built in the 13th century (open until 8pm) and take a walk in the renaissance districts surrounding the castle. Afterwards you set off in the direction of the Cimino Mountains. The agriturismo Parco dei Cimini (agricultural enterprise of the Aliano estate) on the Roman Road between Bagnaia and Soriano nel Cimino is on the slopes of the beech wood at about 800 metres. After dining here in the restaurant, which uses products from the estate only, you can stay overnight, before continuing next day to Montefiascone.

Popes Urbano V, Giulio II, Leone X, Paolo III and Pius IX: Montefiascone has these illustrious inhabitants to thank for its place in history. Not that this town, which dominates the lake of Bolsena, lacks beautiful places or variety of products (above all wine). It's not without reason that various kinds of folkloric cultural events are held here. However, as far as the development of the town is concerned, almost all of the most important projects were due to a pope. An example is Urban IV's remodelling of the delightful church of San Flaviano, on the old Via Francigena. But the real benefactor of this characteristic hamlet was Pope Urban V, who was responsible for the radical transformation of the castle so that it could accommodate the papal court and be given the title of diocese. In the highest part of the town, next to the castle, is the Cathedral of Santa Margherita, which boasts one of the largest domes in Italy. Among the other churches which are worth a visit are Sant'Andrea and the rural church of Santa Maria, built in 1526 at Montedoro on the road to Marta. Noteworthy buildings in the town centre are the Municipal Palace, dominated by a massive bell tower, Palazzo Renzi and the Urban V well. If Montefiascone gives one a strong feeling of walking through a town where time has stopped, the effect in Civita Bagnoregio is even greater. The old town perches on a volcanic outcrop, and is at constant risk of crumbling away. It can only be reached on foot, across a bridge which at one time was made of rope. The lack of cars and the silence which reigns over the whole valley complete the impression. In this town which seems so peaceful, life has taken many different turns over the centuries. Today the village is inhabited by artists and craftsmen who are trying to rescue this most beautiful town from the inexorable passage of time.

The medieval town of Bolsena stretched out on the slopes of the Volsino hills, faces the northwest shore of the lake of Bolsena. Its position has favoured human settlements since ancient times, as evidenced by the remains of some primitive lake dwellings found at the bottom of the lake. Its predecessor, Velzna, was the last of the Etruscan towns to fall to the Romans, who renamed it Volsinii. Today it is a highly organised centre of tourism, and not only in summer. Apart from the tourists attracted by the fishing in the lake, new pilgrims still come to visit the catacombs and the altar of the Miracle of the Eucharist in the Church of Santa Cristina. Indeed, Bolsena is known as the town of miracles as a result of two supernatural events which took place here and which have to do with Santa Cristina, and San Giorgio, joint patron saints of the town. The first goes back to 292 AD, in the early Christian period. For not renouncing her love of God, Cristina was thrown in the lake by her father, who at that time was prefect of the city and the representative of the Roman Empire. But the stone which should have dragged her down, floated instead and she reached the shore safely.The second was the Miracle of Corpus Domini, which happened in 1263 on the stone which had saved Santa Cristina, and which was now an altar table. During a mass which was being celebrated by the Bohemian priest, Peter of Prague, at the moment when he raised the chalice, a few drops of blood fell from the host onto the linen communion cloth and onto the marble of the altar, and from 1693 these have been kept in the chapel of the Miracle of the Church of Santa Cristina. To celebrate the Miracle of Bolsena Pope Urban IV instituted the Feast of Corpus Domini, which is still celebrated on 18th June with a carnival of flowers on the theme of the Eucharist, passing along the streets of the town centre. On the evening of 23rd June, however, Bolsena celebrates its patron saint Cristina with a number of tableaux re-enacting scenes from the martyrdom of the saint, and on the 1st July there is the Sagra del Pesce (feast of fish) all along the lake shore

The town of Orvieto, built on a volcanic rock plateau, is a good example of man's successful integration with nature. Nowadays, we no longer have to climb to the top of the rock on a donkey there is a cable car to take us to the town, a modern way too of enjoying the view. This also is a first indication to the visitor of the reclaiming for pedestrians of the historic centre which should be at a human pace for citizens and tourists. After a quick visit of the town you can opt for one of the typical restaurants in the centre, such as the Trattoria del Moro. Situated among the monuments of the medieval town, it offers visitors exquisite Umbrian cooking, with special attention to wild boar dishes.

Back on the Via Francigena from Viterbo to Acquapendente we stop for a few hours in the town of Gradoli, summer residence of the Farnese, founders of the Farnese dukedom. Situated at 470 metres on the hills around the lake of Bolsena and with eight kilometres of beach within easy reach, Gradoli is a quiet haven for tourists. No visit to the town should omit the Palazzo Farnese, a building of great interest which was erected by Antonio da Sangallo The Younger between 1515 and 1526 on the ruins of a feudal manor. It was built for Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, who afterwards became Pope Paul III, and who continued to live there during the summer months, even after he had been named Pope. To one side of the palace is the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Maddalena, probably built in the first half of the 15th century, and developed to its present state in the 17th century. Its façade is in baroque style and it has a 17th century belfry. Inside are a renaissance baptismal font and a 16th century fresco. From the church you can reach the Museum of Sacred Art which houses a cycle of frescoes of the mannerist school. There are 15 panels representing the mystery of the Rosary, as well as liturgical paraphernalia, church furnishings, and votive offerings. If you are not yet tired of churches San Michele Arcangelo on Via Cavour is also worthy of mention. This church has two works of note. The first is a fresco of the Sienna school of the 15th century depicting the crucifixion, and the other figures San Michele Arcangelo. Gradoli is also famous for the Festa degli Incappucciati (festival of hoods) which is held on the Thursday before Lent begins. The sixty members of the Brotherhood.of Purgatory roam the streets of the town to collect contributions of all kinds. These are then auctioned off and the proceeds go to finance a lunch for 2000 people, which is held on Ash Wednesday. The menu has not changed for five centuries.

This small town is mentioned as far back as 964 in connection with the presence there of the Emperor Otto I. Alternating between domination by the Empire and by the papal states, in 1443 Acquapendente became the seat of the diocese, under the papacy of Innocent X, thus consolidating its status as a free town. A crossroads for crusades and pilgrimages to the Holy Land, and the headquarters of an order of Knights Templars, the town's history seems to be inextricably bound up with religion. On the "massaro" hill to the northwest of the centre is the Santa Chiara Convent. The old medieval fortress has hosted the order of Clarissans since 1333. The nuns dedicate themselves to embroidery and to packing host wafers. On the opposite side, however, on the hillside the other side of the Via Cassia, is the Convento dei padri Cappuccini. The road leading to the monastery is paved with stones from Bagnoregio and its waypoints represent the Way of the Cross. In Acquapendente you can lose yourself in unusual itineraries, such as the one which illustrates that grow in the city, depicted on old maiolica tiles in the piazzetta del Rigombo, or taking part in flora and fauna excursions in the nearby nature reserve of Monte Rufeno. But the event that draws the biggest crowds is the Mid-May Festival, which commemorates the miracle of the Madonna of the Flower, with the ancient tradition of the Pugnaloni. These are large storeyed panels made of flower petals and leaves, that are carried in procession during this ancient festival.

The Monte Rufeno reserve, which covers nearly three thousand hectares on the boundary between Umbria and Tuscany has not only forests and waterfalls, but also old abandoned farmhouses, evidence of an ancient rural architecture. Of the thirty two counted, nine have been restored. In one of these is the "Osteria della montagna" (mountain hostelry), an excellent old trattoria, in the middle of the park. The kitchen uses local organic produce.