The Rosso Conero trail begins in the centre of Ancona, whose name derives from Ankon, meaning elbow; this shape is in fact formed by Monte Conero, creating the only natural port in the central Adriatic. Chief town of the Marche region and situated 16 metres above sea level, Ancona is also a prosperous commercial and industrial centre. The old town is rich in Roman monuments while the southwestern section is populated by new districts constructed after the strong earthquake of 1972. A visit begins with the Fortress which overlooks the port and old town. From the heights of Piazza Sangallo the view is impressive: the hexagonal island of Lazzaretto, designed by architect Vanvitelli (who also built the royal palace in Caserta), can be seen below in the most internal corner of the port and is a grandiose reminder of the former military and quarantine needs of those arriving from the Orient. The most significant monuments of Ancona are just a few metres away on the wharf facing the harbour and ferry terminal. These include, in order of appearance, the ex-church of Sant'Agostino, Palazzo Benincasa and the Loggia dei Mercanti both from the 15th century, and then the delightful Romanesque church of Santa Maria della Piazza featuring a crystal floor allowing the mosaics of previous constructions to be admired. Behind these monuments is Piazza Plebiscito featuring important buildings such as the City Hall and the church of San Domenico, accessed by means of a spectacular flight of steps: inside there is a Crucifixion by Tiziano and an Annunciation by Guercino. Old Ancona ends at the feet of the Guasco hill, which dominates the harbour with the Trajan Arch 16th century Palazzo Ferretti, home to the March National Archaeological Museum, the archaeological area of the Roman amphitheatre and the Cathedral of San Ciriaco, one of the major Mediaeval churches of the region featuring a beautiful façade in pink and white stone. The first vines of Rosso Conero can be seen as you leave Ancona along the pleasant road winding towards the slopes of Monte Conero. Rows of vines alternates with extensive olive groves will be a constant feature of the landscape throughout the journey. Just outside town, in via Pontelungo, there is the wine cellar of Maurizio Marchetti. We recommend sampling his Rosso Conero Villa Bonomi, an exceptional wine first aged in large vats and then in barriques. A little further on, in Montacuto, still part of Ancona, one of the best known vineyards in the region, that of Alessandro Moroder which labels Rosso Conero Dorico of great lineage. A beautiful panoramic road winds directly down from Varano to the Scoglio del Trave on the coast, an unusual needle rock marking the beginning of the Conero Riviera. A few kilometres further south is the downhill stretch leading to Portonovo, a corner of rare beauty particularly for its contrasts, the greenery of the mountain alternating with white pebbled beaches. Untouched environments mingling with more structured locations. The Napoleonic Fort is an authentic military construction housing hotel with a renowned restaurant. In the immediate surroundings, not to be missed is a quick visit to the Romanesque chapel of Santa Maria di Portonovo, constructed in the year 11th century by the monks of the Benedictine abbey. From Portonovo we follow the state road along the ridge, admiring splendid views of the hills and sea. Hotel Emilia is worth a stop, located on a natural terrace in a clearing of Mediterranean copse that dominates the beaches south of Ancona. Neary, the Abbey of San Pietro, an 11th century Benedictine hermitage is also worth a visit.

Not to be missed near Varano the Wine Cellar of Luca and Beatrice Lanari, a small enterprise yet already making its name with the Rosso Conero Fibbio wine. When dining in Portonovo, we recommend sampling the "mosciolo" (mussel) gathered in the Portonovo area of Ancona, and more precisely along the sea coast from Pietralcroce to Sassi Neri di Sirolo. The "mosciolo" has an elongated and flattened shape from the byssus, used to attach itself to reefs. Its exterior is purple-black with a mother-of-pearl interior. This mollusc from the waters of Conero is a top quality product clearly distinguished from farmed mussels. Recommended for dinner, the Emilia restaurant on the Portonovo beach, a renowned location but only open from April to October, or the Laghetto restaurant also found at the shore.

Proceeding south along the coast road we reach Sirolo, a pleasant Mediaeval town still part of the Conero Park territory. According to tradition, the name is derived from Sirio, a Mediaeval leader awarded the land after defeating the Goths in 560, where the castle of Belisario was constructed. The area was probably already inhabited in Roman times as part of the Municipality of Umana (now Numana). The small centre, nestled on the slopes of the Conero, features exemplary Mediaeval remains and is the main base of the Conero Park Consortium. The old town, enclosed within walls and with a fortified keep, still retains a very unique atmosphere. The view across the sea from the sheer drop the rocky stacks known as Two Sisters is enchanting. On the Conero peak is the Church of San Pietro with adjacent convent, now converted to a hotel. In the Middle Ages, in fact, Conero became a site for hermitages and religious communities. The Benedictines built two churches: one below, San Benedetto, and another above, San Pietro. The trails and paths traced by the Monks are still transitable and offer wonderful excursions. Numana, on the coast just beyond Sirolo, is ancient Picene port which traded with Greek merchant ships in the 7th century B.C. This marks the beginning of the ancient territory of the Picenes which extends throughout the southern part of the Marche region. Inland from Numana, the agricultural estate of Francesca Nembrini Gonzaga has an elegant 18th century villa: part of the property includes the operations of the " Granaio di Valcastagno ", a top class holiday farm. In Numana, you should also visit and taste the specialties of the Conte Leopardi agricultural estate, a descendant of the famous poet's family, and the Fattoria Le Terrazze. All produce Rosso Conero wine. Numana also has a small harbour for pleasure craft and yachts. Monuments worthy of note include La Fontana, the church of San Giovanni Battista, and the Antiquarium whose special showcases displays the early 1970s archaeological findings from Numana and the surrounding area. We are now in the heart of the Rosso Conero production area, only recently awarded DOC certification. From the coast of Marche the profile of Loreto and its grand Santuario Mariano are clearly silhouetted against the sky on the hill beyond Monte San Pellegrino and the Selva di Castelfidardo. As centre of worship known throughout the world, Loreto owes its fame to the appearance on 10 May 1291 of the Holy House, brought by a host of winged angels.

In Loreto, the Rosso Conero trail meets one of its most valued names, the Garofoli family. Antonio Garofoli, son of Gioacchino, was the first to produce and sell wine in 1871, creating the company in 1901. Now in its fourth generation, Carlo and Gianfranco continue the business and have achieved extraordinary levels with two Rosso Conero reserves, Grosso Agontano and Vigna Piancarda. Recommended for dinner is Da Andreina restaurant, to sample typical dishes of Marche regional cuisine.

A visit to Recanati means full immersion into the world of Giacomo Leopardi, in a breathtaking atmosphere: the convent of Sant'Agostino with its "ancient tower", the "Sabato del Viaggio" square with the Palazzo Leopardi facing the windows of the house of Silvia and then Infinito hill, and an infinite number of other recollections of his poems. Palazzo Leopardi is open every day: there are artefacts, manuscripts, the library and rooms preserved intact. Recanati offers the chance to buy extra-vergine olive oil at the oil mill of Emilio and Gabriella Gabrielloni. After Recanati we go on to Castelfidardo, a centre noted for the traditional activity and construction of accordions. In the local workshops, all kinds of accordions are produced and sold and there is also an Accordion Museum in the Municipal Hall describing the evolution of this popular musical instrument. Every year in August the town hosts the International Accordion Festival with concerts by accordionists from all over the world. The town is located on the road linking two stops on the Rosso Conero trail. From Loreto to Osimo. These are also important historical sites. In Castelfidardo, a hard battle was fought on 18th September 1860 between the Piedmont and Papal troops, won by the soldiers of General Cialdini. Two days later, the breach of Porta Pia in Rome marked the definitive collapse of the temporal power of the Popes and a united Italy was born. Leaving Conero, the itinerary comes full circle by following the state road to Osimo, a Roman town with long stretches of walls built with large stone blocks and the Fonte Magna, ruins of a nymphaeum from the 1st century B.C. In Osimo you can visit the unique Cathedral of San Leopardo. In the region of Osimo on the SS16 Adriatica state road is the Cantina Umani Ronchi of the Bianchi Bernetti family, one of the most important and famous of the whole Marche region with production spanning the entire range of regional wines, distinguished by the two Rosso Conero reserves, Cùmaro and San Lorenzo. In Osimo, not to be missed is the Abbey of San Nicolò, square built and divided into five naves by columns crowned by a variety of capitals, all of late Mediaeval construction, and a crypt of significant interest. In the centre of Osimo is the Tavernetta del Corso, in Corso Mazzini, selling cheeses and cured meats typical of the Marche region. The itinerary ends in Camerano, found on the edge of the Monte Conero nature reserve, 231 metres above sea level and 12 km from Ancona. Here the famous artists Carlo Maratta, or Maratti, was born: a bust is dedicated to him in the main square of Camerano. Worth a visit are the Mediaeval Palazzo Ricotti with its large courtyard with a garden and a well, the church of San Francesco, the Manciforte garden planted in the 18th century, the small accordion museum, Le Grotte and finally the 18th century Case Gentilizie, hillside summer residences of the noble families of Ancona.

In Osteriaccia, near Umani Ronchi on the Conero fast road and close to the residential area of Camerano, is the Cantina Terre Cortesi Moncaro where Rosso Conero is produced. For dinner we recommend the Tre Querce restaurant in Camerano.