Exciting raft descents and hiking routes through creeks and canyons. This is what the il river Lao, one of southern Italy's most unspoilt water courses, located in the wonderful surroundings of the Pollino National Park in Calabria offers its visitors. Well known to nature lovers, the Lao is an ideal destination for rafting, canoeing and hiking, particularly thrilling along the narrow valleys with hidden natural caves and waterfalls almost covered by lush natural vegetation.

Faithful companions on a journey through this area are juniper, poplar, alder, downy oak and, flying high, peregrine falcons. More difficult to spot among the waters are the spectacled salamander, river shrimp or the darting of a trout. Compared with the most precipitous part of the park (over 2000m above sea level between Calabria and Basilicata) this is gentler and more Mediterranean, dotted with prickly pear trees and the bright colours of the peony, its petals red or white with touches of crimson.

An ideal point for starting a
raft descent is Laino Borgo, from where all the trips are organised by adventure sports clubs and the specialist centres of the area. Beginners can explore the upper reaches of the river, from Laino Borgo down to the Italia Viaduct, which those with more time and experience can choose the stretch that runs through the Grande Gola del Lao, downstream from the town.

It is also worth visiting Laino Borgo itself, a town with ancient origins. The charming Laino Castello is a short walk away, a Longobard settlement was later fortified by the Angevins and Aragonese, the town was permanently abandoned by its inhabitants in 1982, after a violent earthquake. Walking along the streets, however, the noble townhouses are still easily recognizable, as are the remains of the walls and bulwarks of the old castle, the parish church of San Teodoro and the smaller church of Santa Maria delle Vergini.

After a day of thrills and sport, rest your tired legs under the table at the Chiar di Luna restaurant in the Cappelle district of Laino Borgo: a family-run trattoria, with a fine outdoor pergola, where traditional local dishes feature in every course, including excellent salami, ricotta, peppers, rascateddi (dumplings in a wild boar sauce) and home-made tagliatelle served with beans, fresh porcini mushrooms or game. As a digestive, try their liqueur made with wild fennel.

The lowest part of the wild and beautiful river Lao is also worth navigating, after which you can then linger on one of the sunny Tyrrhenian beach for a few hours. The journey begins again in Papasidero, where the archaeological site of the Grotta del Romito and the 18th century sanctuary of the Madonna di Costantinopoli, a jewel set between gorges of the Lao which houses important frescoes, are both worth a visit. Continuing by raft, the journey heads towards to the confluence of the river Argentino as far as the bridge to Orsomarso, a delightful village dominated by the rocky ridges of its massif, then down to the sea.

Some of the finest views in the area are to be had from the village of Santa Domenica di Talao, built on high ground dominating the whole river valley and the Tyrrhenian coastline. Nearby, to the north of the Lao estuary, lies the town of Scalea, its houses climbing steeply up a hillside. Built to defend the surrounding area from Turkish raids, this ancient town has the remains of a Norman castle and two fine churches: that of Santa Maria dell'Episcopio and that of the Spedale, with Byzantine frescoes. Over the years the town has expanded towards the sea, with a new district centred around the church of San Nicola in Plateis. Thanks to its long beach, in summer Scalea becomes a busy seaside resort, in open competition with Praia a Mare to the north. Santa Maria del Cedro, on the other hand, is reached by taking the road inland to the south of the estuary, famous for growing citrons to which its name refers. It is also one of the areas where grapes are cultivated for the Verbicaro wine, typical of this area of the Pollino National Park.

We return to the heart of the Parco di Pollino, Mormanno, for the night, dining at the Parco Villa Elena farm in the Profitta district: here the chef prepares dishes from products of the farm, which raises livestock and produces dairy products, cheeses, eggs and wine, all on sale in the farm shop. The house hors d'oeuvres, made with their own cured meats and cheeses, and the veal alla castrovillarese with tomatoes and peppers, are well worth a try. The restaurant is in a beautiful country house, surrounded by countryside, and has ten guest rooms, furnished with wood and wrought iron antiques.

For the last day of our journey, we set aside our rafts and paddles and devote ourselves to local culture and traditions, right at the heart of the Pollino. Beginning in Mormanno, which mountain walking enthusiasts will love as the starting point for trips into the mountains: Velatro (1111 metres), Cerviero (1443 metres) and Palanuda (1631 metres). Our route continues towards Morano Calabro, one of the Italy's most attractive towns. Consisting of a maze of narrow streets and a clinging "cascade of houses", the town has grown vertically up a hill, dominated by the ruins of a Norman-Swabian castle. The lowest part of the town is centred on the 15th century church of San Bernardino da Siena, with a fine façade embellished with a porch in yellow stone.

Continuing to the south-east we come to San Basile, one of the towns in the Pollino where the traditions of the Albanian communities are still alive. In the church of the Monastery of Santa Maria Odigitria it is possible to attend services still celebrated according to the Orthodox ritual. Castrovillari is the largest town in the area. A first glance shows it is divided into two: the old part, also known as Civita, is high on a rocky spur, while the new town extends over a large conca at the foot of Mount Pollino. This is where the symbol of the new town, a historic steam engine from the Ferrovie calabro-lucane is to be found, in commemoration of the economic development brought to the area by this historic railway company in the 20th century.

The hill, on the other hand, is dominated by the imposing Aragonese Castle built in 1490, with exceptional views of the plains below, it hosts various events during the year, including the picturesque Pollino Carnival. A few kilometres to the east of Castrovillari is another village which should not be missed. Called Civita, (not to be confused with the Civita in Castrovillari, however) it is a treat for both eyes and appetite, thanks to a number of restaurants that have succeeded in combining Calabrian cuisine with the most ancient culinary traditions of Albania. The village is characterised by its many fountains, all made from the local stone. Near the village is the Raganello stream, whose course runs first through a gorge and then spreads out in the plain. Although the ponte del diavolo fell a few years ago, the stream can be crossed easily from here to seek its most attractive corners.

The Locanda di Alia serves only Calabrian dishes. Ignoring the latest fads in restaurant kitchens, Gaetano, the owner, has continued the family's gastronomic tradition, transforming ancient Calabrian recipes into authentic masterpieces of the area. Traditional ingredients such as 'nduja, aniseed from the Sila mountains and figs often make their appearance, for example in the country bean soup with prawns, on the liquorice sorbet or alongside the capocollo cured meat. The cellar, where pride of place is naturally given to local wines, is one of the best in southern Italy.