Costiera Amalfitana - dintorni di Positano
 
Tuesday February 9, 2010 














Step into the heart of Sicily
The real Sicily, the Sicily of historic monuments, local folklore, and often wild nature are the focal points of this itinerary that takes you into the area between Caltagirone and Piazza Armerina, in the central-eastern part of the island.
Amid Baroque churches, nature reserves and old sulphur mines, not only by car, also on foot, by bicycle or on horseback, discover a pristine corner of Sicily, with its timeless and unforgettable colours of the sea.

First Day
Beginning in Caltagirone, famous for its ceramics production. Various stops include: Piazza della Loggia, the ceramics exhibition and the steps of Santa Maria del Monte. In the afternoon visit Grammichele or Lake Biviere.
 
A charming dinner with traditional Sicilian specialities at Villa Tasca, an 18th-century residence in Fontana Pietra, along the road to Mirabella Imbaccari.
Second Day
   
A day dedicated to an excursion along the trail of the old Caltagirone-Piazza Armerina railway between. The landscape is typical of inland Sicily. Not to be missed is a visit to the Roman Villa del Casale.
 
Dinner at the Gigliotto agricultural centre in a panoramic spot on a hilltop surrounded by an estate of over 200 hectares. The menu offers traditional local dishes.
Third Day
   
The morning is dedicated to Piazza Armerina. The historic centre of the town is definitely worth visiting. Not to be missed are the Aragonese Castle and the Romanesque Church of Sant'Andrea. Then an "open air" afternoon including the excavations of Morgantina.
 
An evening in Piazza Armerina, with dinner at the Fogher restaurant in the Bellia district, followed by an after-dinner stroll through the alleyways of the charming mediaeval historic centre.



 NEIGHBORHOODS
 
 
Step into the heart of Sicily

Steps of Santa Maria del Monte

Church of Santa Maria del Monte

Public garden


Archaeological relics

Piazza Armerina

 
Start
 
 
Itinerary
First Day

In giornata
An early start, commencing with a visit to Caltagirone, a town in the province of Catania. An area rich in clay, Caltagirone is know worldwide for its ceramics production, rooted in the period of Muslim domination when the first kilns appeared. The name of the city is of Arabic origin, the ancient Cal'at Ghiran. Though inhabited since prehistoric times, today's monuments date back to the Baroque period and are the fruit of an almost total reconstruction following the devastating 1693 earthquake. In the 18th century, the architects and artists that redesigned the monuments, churches, and buildings limited themselves to the construction of individual buildings, retaining the original mediaeval plan. Given its geographic position among the hills creating a spur to Monte Erei and Monte Iblei, and the considerable difference in temperature between day and night, it is not unusual in winter to see it enveloped in fog.
Your visit might begin with the characteristic steps of Santa Maria del Monte, connecting the lower and upper towns with 142 steps, the risers of which are embellished with polychrome ceramics. The steps lead directly through the heart of the old town and up to the Church of Santa Maria del Monte, built in 1100, but completely reconstructed in the 18th century. The interior has a basilica layout and contains a precious 13th century Byzantine work, the Madonna di Conadomini. At the opposite end, the steps open onto the19th century Piazza del Municipio, the intersection of two main streets, Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Via Roma. Both are rich in craft shops, villas, and Baroque churches, all of which are to be visited. Also not to be missed are the ceramic exhibition market and animated nativity scene, expressing a tradition originating in the 16th century. The follow up to the "samples" you have already appreciated along the streets of the town would be a visit to the Regional Ceramics Museum, housed in an 19th-century villa constructed by Giovanni Battista Basile and embellished with terracottas by Bongiovanni Vaccaro. The Villa merits a stop just to appreciate the large public garden, rich in exotic plants.
On a hilltop about 15 km west of the town centre is the Grammichele. With a little time it is also possible to plan an escursion to the Lago Biviere Nature Reserve, just a few kilometres east of Gela.
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Dish with aubergines

 
Start
 
First Day
Step into the heart of Sicily

Evening
Dinner at Villa Tasca on the provincial road leading to Mirabella Imbaccari. The villa, built in the18th century, was originally owned by the Sturzo family but has belonged to the Tasca-Ciancio family for more than three generation; in addition to the restaurant, they also offer overnight accommodation in one of their eight rooms. The menu offers traditional Sicialian dishes: eggplant buttunate, Sicilian caponata, swordfish with wild fennel, oven-roast lamb, mixed grills, almond ice cream cake with hot chocolate topping.
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Step into the heart of Sicily

The inland territories

Roman bust

Monte Iblei area


Inland Sicily

Mountain trail

 
Start
 
 
Itinerary
Second Day

In giornata
A day spent in with Mother Nature in the suggestive setting of Monti Erei e Iblei. Leave Caltagirone either on foot or by bike (or even on horseback) and follow the linear trail of the Park along the old narrow gauge railway which from the 1920s until 1971 linked Caltagirone to Piazza Armerina. The railway was 35 kilometres long, crossing natural and agricultural landscapes dotted with buildings and related technical structures. From Salvatorello, pedal or walk to San Michele di Ganzaria and the old railway station, now fully restructured as a support facility for cycling tourism. The part of the route designed as a cycle path, about fifteen kilometres in all, will soon be subjected restructuring and maintainance works. The path was constructed with coloured stones and bitumen and embellished with two rows of cypresses to mark the route. There are stretches where pergolas offer a pause for refreshment in the shade and to remind travellers that this itinerary truly focuses on a nature reserve theme. After San Michele, stop at Mirabella Imbaccari or in one of the other areas once stations on the old railway.
For the less health-conscious, those who have less time, or those who prefer to discover other towns of inland Sicily, perhaps just forty kilometres further west to Mazzarino, then you can also follow this route by car. In this case, leave Caltagirone and go to San Michele, then north to Piazza Armerina. On either route, both involving around thirty kilometres by state road, one stop is absolutely necessary, just a few kilometres from Piazza Armerina where signs indicate the famous Roman Villa del Casale, from the 4th century A.D.
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Olive oil

 
Start
 
Second Day
Step into the heart of Sicily

Evening
A day surrounded by nature will find a fitting end when you take a table at the Agriturismo Gigliotto, a historic farm surrounding by a terrain dotted with prickly pears, all within a large 200-hectare hilltop estate. Tastefully restructured, it also offers overnight accommodation. The restaurant, set in the old olive oil mill, uses mostly fam-produced ingredients.
About 800 metres away is a stables where you can arrange pleasant horseriding excursions.
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Step into the heart of Sicily

Vineyards

Inland territories

Piazza Armerina, castle


Piazza Armerina, cathedral

Inland territories

 
Start
 
 
Itinerary
Third Day

In giornata
Piazza Armerina certainly merits a morning or more. Nestled on the slopes of Mount Erei, in the province of Enna, this is a town rich in mediaeval, Renaissance and Baroque gardens and monuments. The origins of the town can most likely be traced back to the Normanns, but it reached its apex during the Middle Ages under the reign of Count Ruggero Normanno. Subsequently, development of the cereals trade brought wealth to the noble families, who built beautiful churches and patrician palaces in Baroque style. The old town, with its mediaeval plan, embraces the Baroque cathedral. In Piazza del Duomo, there is also the splendid Palazzo Trigona; behind the cathedral, along Via Cavour, you will find the 12th century Franciscan complex that is now the hospital, as well as an adjacent church with a bell tower crowned by a majolica-covered spire. Continue downhill towards Santa Rosalia and Piazza Garibaldi, with Palazzo Canicarao, the church of Fundrò, and the 18th century Palazzo di Città. In Via Vittorio Emanuele, you can admire the façade of the Church of Sant'Ignazio di Loyola and the Church of Sant'Anna. The historic district is dominated by the massive Aragonese Castle, constucted at the end of the 14th century. West of the town stands the 12th century hermitage of Sant'Andrea. Just beyond there is the 17th century complex of Santa Maria del Gesù, now abandoned.
Piazza Armerina is also famous for its lively traditions and folklore, relived annually in the historic palio dei Normanni, a pageant held on August 13th and 14th to commemorate the entrance of the troops of Count Ruggero d'Altavilla. These three days in inland Sicily would not be complete without a visit to surrounding area of Piazza Armerina. Perhaps begin with the archaeological excavations of Morgantina, less than 15 kilometres northeast of the town. This Hellenic site is located on the extreme eastern border of Monte Erei in a strategic position on Monte Cittadella.
A necessary complement to the excursion would be a visit to the nearby Regional Archaeological Museum of Aidone, located in the ex-convent of the Cappuccini. From Aidone continue towards Valguarnera Caropepe, a farming and mining town on the slopes of Mount Erei. The town covers little more than 9 square kilometres and owes its origins authorization granted in 1549 to the Prince of Valguarnera to build an urban settlement in his own feud. This is one of the main archaeological-industrial sites in Italy, a true open-air museum where the production of sulphur began in 1770 and continued until 1980. The site of the mine forms a triangle bordered by Pergusa lake, where trekking and horse riding are possible, and by the Ronza fauna and forestry park.
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Typical dessert

 
Start
 
Third Day
Step into the heart of Sicily

Evening
Near Piazza Armerina, along the SS 117 bis state road, near the turnoff for Aidone, you will find the Bellia 1 district and the Fogher restaurant. This is a small yet sophisticated restaurant with a beautifully decorated and cosy atmosphere, where you will be offered various menus including fish from the Licata or Gela markets. Try the peppered fillet of pork in a pistachio crust, or snail pie, cheeses and local desserts. The wine cellar is particularly well-stocked.


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