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Tuesday September 7, 2010 














Along the sheep trails
An open-air itinerary to discover the sheep trails of the region of Molise, the long, grassy trails used for transhumance, the seasonal moving of livestock from summer pastures in the mountains of Abruzzo, to winter ones in the flatlands of Tavoliere delle Puglie. About three million heads of livestock travelled along these green highways that were sixty Neapolitan feet wide (around 111 metres) during the 17th and 18th centuries. Travelling the same roads once used by shepherds and their flocks, imagining those grassy clearings brimming with millions of sheep and mule caravans loaded down with household belongings, is like taking a step back in time.

First Day
From Carpinone to Frosolone, following part of the route of the Castel di Sangro-Lucera sheep trail as far as Duronia.
 
A dinner based on local cheeses and cured meats at La Tana dell'Orso restaurant in Colle dell'Orso near Frosolone. For the more adventurous, after dinner horse riding under the stars.
Second Day
   
From Castelpetroso to San Massimo Campitello Matese, following a part of the second sheep trail on the itinerary, the Pescasseroli-Candela.
 
A mountain-style dinner at the Rifugio Jezza followed by dancing at Il Covo, both located in Campitello Matese.
Third Day
   
From Bojano, where the sheep trail passes through the centre of town, to Sepino, with stops at the Longobard necropolis of Campochiaro and the remains of the Roman settlement of Sepinum.
 
Dinner and after dinner entertainment at La Taverna holiday farm in Sepino, sampling local specialiites in the rustic setting of an 18th century farm with a water mill



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Along the sheep trails

Carpinone

Pietrabbondante

Pietrabbondante


Sunflower meadow

A nearby castle

 
Start
 
 
Itinerary
First Day

In giornata
Beginning in Carpinone, not far from Isernia, on a hill surrounded by woods and dominated by the picturesque Caldora Castle, rising over the Carpino River. Not to be missed are the waterfalls just outside town. Another interesting castle is found in Pescolanciano, one of the towns along the Castel di Sangro-Lucera sheep trail; the manor, constructed around one of the ancient control towers along the trail, dominates the entire hamlet from the rocky spur upon which it is perched.
From here, you must make a stop at Pietrabbondante to visit the archaeological complex formed by the temple-theatre. Then continue along the sheep trail to Civitanova del Sannio, with its particularly beautiful beech wood, the Montagnola, River Trigno, the lake and the karst highlands where strawberries, mushrooms, white truffles and aromatic herbs flourish. The last stop along the sheep trail today is Duronia; during the Middle Ages this town was known as "Civitavetula" and today still retains its mediaeval atmosphere, recognizable in the robust structure of the castle in spite of having undergone some reconstruction. Near the imposing rocky mass of the Civita are the remains of the Samnite fortifications where some burial artefacts were found. From the Urcio area, along the ridges of the Civita, you can also see a large natural sculpture, the "giant's head", and admire a splendid panorama. Then leave the sheep trail and head towards Frosolone, a very old village that offers a sophisticated blend of art, archaeology, craftsmanship and popular traditions. In fact, here you can visit the workshops of the master cutlers. Upon entering the town, you will find a charming welcome in the monumental fountain of the Immacolata or "Fonte grossa", constructed from stone quarried locally; other sites worth visiting are the church of Santa Maria Assunta with its elaborate stone façade and the 16th-17th century baronial palace. But the town is also renowned for the beauty of the surrounding mountains and as an excellent base for excursions into the nearby Valle della Contessaa and Colle dell'Orso. Be sure to see the nearby granite cliff, a real treat for climbing aficionados. In August, the plateau of the Colle dell'Orso holds an event dedicated to Formaggi preziosi, a national fair dedicated to dairy products.
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Crepes

 
Start
 
First Day
Along the sheep trails

Evening
Dinner at the La Tana dell' Orso restaurant in Colle dell'Orso near Frosolone, where you can enjoy ricotta cheeses made from sheep's milk and caciocavallo produced by local shepherds, crepes with ricotta and spinach, fettuccine with truffles, and tacconelle alla Molisana. The grilled local meats are excellent, as are the traditional cured meats and sausages packed in lard. After dinner, the more adventurous visitors may enjoy horse riding under the stars (the restaurant also manages a stable).
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Along the sheep trails

Pescolanciano

The sheep trail in Sepino

Sanctuary


Cliffs

Grazing cow

 
Start
 
 
Itinerary
Second Day

In giornata
Leave Frosolone and head towards Castelpetroso, beginning a second stretch of the sheep trails included in this itinerary, the Pescasseroli-Candela. This village is famous for its place of pilgrimage, the Sanctuary of the Vergine Santissima Addolorata. Then reach Santa Maria del Molise, and the hamlet of Sant'Angelo in Grotte where you will find the evocative Grotto of San Michele Arcangelo. The saint is celebrated in Sant'Angelo on May 8th and 9th with religious ceremonies, events in the square, and a fair. While in Sant'Angelo, you should also see the Church of San Pietro in Vincoli, where a trap door leads to a crypt where the walls and ceiling are decorated with frescoes depicting the Seven Works of Compassion. Continue through the small village of Cantalupo nel Sannio, of mediaeval origin, surrounded by wooded hillsides and with the majestic backdrop of the massif of the Matese. A detour from the old sheep trail leads to Roccamandolfi, the old "Rocca Maginulfi" of the Longobards, dominated by the mediaeval castle rising behind the town. The entire castle is now in ruins, but on the outside you may still admire a stretch of wall between the cylindrical towers. Another nearby attraction would be the a protected area of the Callora torrent and the picturesque town of Campitello di Roccamandolfi, an excellent base for magnificent excursions in the Matese and home of the Festa del pastore held every August. From here, go first to San Massimo, another particularly well preserved mediaeval village surrounded by a very characteristic countryside, and then climb up to the plateau of Campitello Matese, similar to an immense amphitheatre surrounded by the Monte Miletto group and by the mountains of Gallinola. With its 35 kilometres of slopes, Campitello is a famous ski resort of the southern-central Apennines and one of the most important tourist resorts in the region. The wealth of natural attractions in this area makes it a popular destination also in summertime. The countryside near San Massimo gives way to dense woodlands: pinewoods and chestnut groves that reach the plateau of Campitello, the ideal departure point for excursions, for example to the Grotte del Fumo and Grotte delle Ciarle, along trails marked by the Italian Alpine Club. Particularly interesting is "Bosco di Pietra", a wood of tall pine trees where concerts are held in summertime.
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A typical soup

 
Start
 
Second Day
Along the sheep trails

Evening
A mountain-style dinner at theRifugio Jezza in Campitello Matese, a typical mountain refuge where you can try the exquisite Molise regional cuisine. After dinner, dancing at Il Covo, a disco bar also located in Campitello.
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Along the sheep trails

Ethnic costumes

Pietrabbondante

Ruins of dwellings


Sheep trails

Porta Bojano

 
Start
 
 
Itinerary
Third Day

In giornata
Leaving Campitello, return to the Pescasseroli-Candela sheep trail in the direction of the flatlands of Bojano. The old Bovianum, capital of the Pentri Samnites, founded around the 4th century B.C. near the sources of the River Biferno. Bojano is also the only town in the Matese area where the sheep trail passes directly though the centre of town. Stop to visit the Cathedral of San Bartolomeo and the ruins of the mediaeval castle, around which a small village known as the Civita grew and is still well preserved. This town is full of picturesque corners, with narrow lanes winding among the buildings, some of which are now reduced to brickface exteriors. In the square of Civita there is also a belvedere from where you can enjoy an excellent view of the town. The characteristic Festival of St. Egidio is held every year in September. Another enjoyable place to visit is San Polo Matese, a mediaeval village perched on a hilltop at the foot of the Matese. Many excursions depart from this town. The surrounding area is an attractive destination for lovers of palaeontology because it is full of rudistid fossils, marine molluscs that in fact demonstrate the presence of the sea in the territory during the Cretaceous period. During the Christmas season in San Polo, there is ongoing tradition of zampognari pipers, and on the 26th and 27th visitors come from all over the region come to enjoy the live nativity crib, though the town has been known for years as the "Town of the Witches". The next stop is Campochiaro with its delightful mediaeval district once defended by a pentagon-shaped wall and nine towers. Today there are no traces remaining of this fortress, but at the top of the hill there is a round tower still intact. The surrounding area also holds interesting and important archaeological artefacts: the remains of the Italic sanctuary in Civitelle, and, most of all, a Longobard necropolis. Nearby, an absolute must is the WWF oasis of Guardiaregia-Campochiaro. Passing through Guardiaregia, famous for its pottery production of bowls and saucepans known throughout Molise. Not to be missed are the Tre fratelli, a legendary configuration of three monumental beech trees. From the railway station in Guardiaregia, you can take an excurision on foot to the last stop of the itinerary in Sepino, where the main attraction are the excavations of Sepinum romana. Sepino is also famous for its hot springs and for the bofù, a traditional musical instrument, also played in a propitiary rite which takes place on December 31.
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Ravioli

 
Start
 
Third Day
Along the sheep trails

Evening
Dinner and after-dinner at the holiday farm La Taverna di Sepino, set on an 18th century farm with a water mill on the River Tammaro, fully reconstructed in stone. The local specialities include cavatelli al tegamino, ravioli with walnuts, spaghetti mollicati, pork roast, shepherd's meatloaf and cornflour and chicory pizza.


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